How to plant:

Before planting the cutting, dip the cut end in water, root stimulator or concentrated Superthrive, then into a rooting powder that contains a fungicide such as Rootone. Only about 2 cm of the cut end should be so treated because roots will only develop along the circumference of the cut end.

Select a container appropriately sized for the cutting. Use a one gallon pot (about 4 litres) for cuttings without a branch point, but a two gallon pot (about 7 litres) for one with more branch points. Of course, very large cuttings will require a larger container for stability.

The planting medium has three layers: The bottom layer should be a fast draining planting mix rich in organic material. The middle layer should be perlite or sand. The top layer should be same as the bottom layer. Everyone seems to use a different planting mix formulation, but the essentials are high organic content, fast drainage and mosture retention.

Fill the pot 2/3 full with the planting mix (the bottom layer), make a fist sized indentation and fill it with perlit or sand (the middle layer). Insert the cut end of the plmeria into the perlite/sand. Top off with more planting mix till the pot is nearly full (the top layer). The additional mix can be packed in to provide support, but supplemental support or staking is recommended. During the early root growing process it is ver important the the cutting be stable. The initial roots are quite fragile and easily broken if the cutting is wobbling about in the pot.

Root Development

During the root development process water usage will be minimal. However, the soil should not be allowed to completely dry out. Approximately one cup (350 ml) of water should be added weekly until the plant has established a root system. Fortunately, frequent tropical downpours do not seem to cause any problem during the rooting process. Generally, a lush healthy growth of leaves will indicate an equally health root system. The entire rooting process should be performed in a somewhat dry, war to hot and full sun environment. Excellent results can be achieved by placing the container in full sun on a concrete surface. The heat absorbed and radiated by the concrete stimulate root growth.

When it Blooms

Plumeria may bloom during the rooting process, however the bloom does not indicate an established root system. The flower may or may not be representative of future flowers. Some people cut off the inflorescence so the plant devotes more energy to root development. Remember healthy leaves indicate healthy roots, flowers do not.

Care in Subtropical Climates:

Plumerias can be grown in containers, in the ground, or containers sunk in the ground. During the months of active growth, ample sun, food, and water are essential. Healthy plumeria will grow vigorously and bloom regularly and profusely when they receive at least 6 hours of full sun per day and an ample amount of the proper fertilizer. Plumeria love lots of water , but can't tolerate wet feet, so they must be planted in highly organic, fast draining soil or in beds with adequate drainage. Clay, gumbo and silt are examples of poor draining soils; avoid these at all costs.

In the Spring:

When the nighttime temperatures begin to usually remain above 50° F, plumeria can be brought out of winter storage and encouraged out of dormancy. due to dconditions of strage, some root loss and seddication of branches is expected, this is no cause for alarm. This is the time to feed, water, top dress and/or repot. Sind the plant is dormant, it will be minimally disturbed by repotting and root pruning as necessary.

Repotting and root pruning are optional and are performed as with any other ocntainer grown plant. Top dress by scraping off the loose soil and dead roots from the first couple of centimetres of soil. Replace the removed soil with a mixturee of compost and/or well composed cow manure.

Feed and water thoroughly using a fertilizer such as Super Bloom or Carl Pool's BR-61. IF desired, there are specialty plumeria foods that can be used.

Place the plant in a warm and sunny location. Some people like to sink the container into the ground, but be sure it is in a raised and well drained area such as a rose bed. This promotes more vigorous growth, provides support, and prevents it from blowing over. Plumeria tips are fragile and easily snapped off when the plant blows over.

In the Summer:

For plumerias, summer has arrived once a lush growth of leaves has developed. Many will bloom before developing leaves, others will not. Once the leaf growth has developed, the summer regimen of care can be followed.

As mentioned before, plumeria are heavy feeders. However, in order to discourage excessive stem elongation and to promote flowering, fertilizers low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus are, once again, recommended. Super Bloom or Carl Pool's BR-61 are excellent choices. Keep a plumeria healthy by feeding once or twice a month, and watering as necessary. The recommended foods can be sprinkled directly on the soil and then watered in. Consider using two tablespoons per five gallon pot per month.

During exceptionally hot periods, plants in above ground containers my need thorough watering as often as every other day. Drooping leaves can indicate a thirsty plant. As with all plants, check the soil before watering, if it's dry for the first several centimetres, water thoroughly. Certain varieties of plumeria find Texas heat excessive for nomoinal blossom production. If this appears to be a problem, move the plant into a shifting shade location for better flower production and keeping quality.

As the days begin to grow shorter during August and September, some lower leaf yellowing and drop is normal. Some varieties will attempt a fall bloom cycle, if you are lucky and the weather cooperates, plumeria can still be blooming into November and December! But watch out, an early frost can damage or kill the plant.

In the Fall:

For Plumeria, fall begins once the nighttime temperature begins to drop below 55° F. Studies have concluded that plumeria stop growing when the average ambient temparture drops below 65° F. Stop feeding and reduce water to encourage the plant to into its natural dormant period.

Some growers think that feeding after mid August may contribute to the black tip fungus problem, however this has not been proven. It is difficult to predict the weather and therefore it's difficult give a date by which your plumeria whoud be safely stored for the winter. By all means, if temperatures are expected to fall into the lower 30° sF, the plants should be protected. Most varieties can be damaged or killed by temperatures in the low 30° sF for even a few hours.

For the Winter:

During the winter, plumeria require very little care. In fact winter care could be considered winter storage. Before storage, the plumeria should be defoliated. The best way to do this is to cut each and every leaf off the plant at a point about 2 cm from the stem. If you don't defoliate, the leaves will yellow and fall off during storage providing a good environment for pests and fungus (as well as make a mess).

Store the plumeria in a cool to warm, dry and ventilated area such as a garage, storage shed, or your living room. Temperatures should not be allowed to fall below freezing in the storage area. During exceptionally cold periods, for example, below 25° F outside, a small supplemental heater may be required for plants stored in unheated sheds. A cool greenhouse is not recommended for plumeria storage because it will tend to be too damp and thus promote black tip fungus and other fungus problems.

Some people suggest not watering plumeria at all for theentire winter, but probably a small monthly drink does more good than harm, especially if the branches are getting dessicated and the plant is in a warm, dry location.

Since defoliated plumeria takes up considerably less space thatn one in full leaf, they can frequently be stacked tow and three high in the storage area.